The Rise of Heroin Chic
Updated: 12 hours ago
Leading model of 90s –Kate Moss- started a new tend in fashion industry with no intension.
Kate Moss was one of the leading models in fashion industry in the 90s and early 2000s. Her first take in this industry was on a shoot for Calvin Klein in 1992, when at that time famous model Vanessa Paradis turned designer down.
This photoshoot started Kate Moss’s carrier and made her known to the public and other designers/photographers. Her first ever big money, 3 million dollars, were giving to her for this shoot; as said by Glen Luchford in a series ’In Vogue: The 90s’.
At first, public didn’t want to accept this kind of model, as she was different and they were not ready yet for change. They often described her as ‘unpolished’ and ‘fragile’. This later made Kate Moss known for her pale skin, raw and real beauty; which all together made her a start of Heroin Chic.
The term ‘Heroin Chic’ is often used for models which have an appearance of a pale skin, slim body with sharp face features. Their clothes was usually not outgoing, casual and very messy-looking. Type of clothes Heroin Chic models wore were oversized sweaters, ripped jeans and leather jackets. They were also known for liking sheer fabrics and dark or muted colours in clothes. In addition, Heroin Chic was very shown in a mood. Models with Heroin Chic were described as having detached, tired or melancholic expressions. They would rarely smile and have blank stares with a dreamy look. This released a ‘don’t care’ or defiant attitude, in contrast to the confident, glamorous supermodels of the 1980s
Eileen Ford was against this kind of photoshoots – she called it “unhealthy looking”.
This image of Kate Moss being a Heroin Chic model was reinforced when she did a lingerie shoot for Vogue in 1993. Usually, lingerie shoots were shot in very expensive location like beach with a model Claudia Schiffer. But a stylist Cathy Kasterine wanted to try something different. She invited photographer Corinne Day and model Kate Moss. Initially, Kate Moss felt comfortable and herself in this shoot, as it was taken in her own flat in London. The shoot had a deliberately simple aesthetic: Kate Moss appeared barefaced, her hair pulled back into a messy ponytail, in nothing more than underwear and a simple t-shirt and skin-coloured tights. The stylist Cathy Kasterine, described Kate Moss as a “teenage girl in her bedroom”. This editorial was special, new and different for Vogue magazines, but the press was not ready for it.
The press reacted negatively to the shoot, they were appalled. In magazines like I-D, this look was considered being normal but posting it in Vogue was very extraordinary for the press. Anna Wintour, editor of Vogue, described the editorial as “undernourished-looking model made people uncomfortable”. Not only the press but even some model agents were confused about this shoot; Eileen Ford was against this kind of photoshoots – she called it “unhealthy looking”.
Kate Moss’s slim body shape played a big role in this shoot, as people were more considered about her being skinny. Exactly this photoshoot started the rise of Heroin Chic.
Written by Daria Redchenko
11/09/2025
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